Portencross Castle
By Skip Nolan
Portencross Castle is the fourth Boyd castle or tower
house that we have been able to identify. This castle
was the traditional place of departure from the mainland
for the funeral boats carrying the kings of Scotland to
burial on the Holy island of Iona. There is a rare blue
flower found there which is associated with both the castle
and its sometimes sad function. This history is remembered
in a song called "The Flower of Portencross."
When we arrived at its location near West Kilbride we
found it conveniently adjacent to a public car park, set
aside for local recreational use. The keep itself sits
astride a rock which projects into the Firth of Clyde.
It is the smallest of the Boyd towers that we visited,
though it is probably the oldest.
The keep originally belonged to the Ross family, who
backed the wrong side in the Bruce/Comlyn dispute. It
already stood when the victorious King gave it to Sir
Robert Boyd along with the better known holdings in Strathclyde.
Although in a now remote location and small in size, it
played an important part in the history of the region.
Several of the Stewart kings stayed in the keep on their
travels through the area and existing documents were signed
and dated by them there. It passed out of the Boyd family
in 1785 after over 400 years of ownership.
The structure is of red sandstone and comprised of a
square three storied tower, the oldest part, containing
a door at ground level on the East (landward side), and
a later four story tower which was added to the East side
to form a re-entrant angle. As can be seen from the picture
above, there is an additional door in the new tower which
faces the one in the older construction. This door has
a square lintel, whereas the older one is arched. The
parapets are supported on individual corbels. There are
no rounds at the corners.
We had full access to the outside of the castle, but
found the doors secured by padlocks. The keep is unoccupied
at present. The following description of the interior
comes from "Castles of Scotland", by Maurice Lindsay,
published 1994 by Constable and Company, Ltd., London.
"there is a kitchen in the vaulted basement with a straight
stair to the first floor, and in the linking wall of the
two sections, a turnpike stair beyond. The Hall in the
main block is vaulted, with an entresol floor at the base
of the vaulting. There is an additional kitchen at first-floor
level. The higher part of the building is now ruinous,
having stood exposed to the elements since a gale stripped
its roof in 1739." This source also states that the second
door (in the wing) leads to the first floor. Americans
should remember that the "first floor" in Scotland refers
to what is commonly called the "second floor" in the USA.
Our first floor is called the "ground Floor" there.
The design of the castle incorporates features which
are atypical of tower houses of the late thirteenth and
fourteenth centuries, from which the oldest part of this
building must date, having been given as an existing structure
to Sir Robert Boyd by King Robert the Bruce. The usual
location of the entrance would have been at the first
floor level, as evidenced at Kilmarnock (Dean) Castle.
Access was made via a ladder which was drawn up when the
door was secured.
If we imagine the appearance of the older tower without
the new addition and ground level door, it is in all other
aspects typical of the period. We surmise that the door
was moved to ground level when the new tower was built,
perhaps in the fifteenth or sixteenth centuries when ground
floor entrances had become common. The original entrance
is now most likely the passage at the first floor level
between the two towers. The additional door in the new
tower was probably added at an even later date, as indicated
by the differing methods of construction of the two portals.
Life in this sea level keep must have been excruciatingly
unpleasant during winter storms, It is directly exposed
to both wind and waves and sits less than ten feet from
the water's edge. Flood tide waves would reach the ground
floor easily (note that the picture was taken when the
tide was out) and blowing spume and water would readily
drench the upper two floors. This certainly explains the
presence of an alternate kitchen on the first floor for
use when the ground floor was too wet. Everything and
everybody in residence would soon be damp and clammy.
That such a location would be built and occupied for so
long a period serves to remind us of the violence our
ancestors endured without the protection of civilized
government not so very long ago.
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